The Expedition-Logo of My K2-Expedition back in 1995. After hesitating for a long time, in november 1994 I volunteered to join the expedition-team, because Cas told me that Ronald Naar was still looking for a second doctor, who could climb as well.
The Team-members (f.l.t.r.):Cas vd Gevel, Joost Cohensius, Wilco v Rooyen, Thierry Schmitter, Wouter Beelen, Hans vd Meulen, Ronald Hulsebosch, Arjan v Waardenburg, Edmond Öfner, Ronald Naar; Bert Geeraets joined in later. Ronald didn't offer me a place immediately. Psychiatry wasn't exactly the specialty he was looking for.
January 1995 we had our first team-week, in Nevache, near Briançon (French Alps). I travelled together with Cas in my good old Audi 80; we passed the Col du Lautaret (2058m) in heavy snowfall.
Fontcouverte (1850m) was Hans' chalet; one hour walking from Nevache (because of the snow). We stayed there for a week: my first meeting with the other team-members. Cas + Wilco I already knew before. I was a little anxious about what the others might think about me. Almost all of them were quite experienced climbers and many of them already had expedition-experience. That week in France over 1 meter of fresh snow fell on all of us.
Lac Rond (2550m) was the right place to camp in heavy snowfall. The next morning our tent was almost completely covered by snow. We slept with 4 in one tent. Oxygen was low inside; I dreamt that I couldn't breathe...
Some people just know how to get down on skis (like myself), some really know how to ski; here our expedition-leader teaches.
April 1995, our second week with the group, we went to Chamonix. After one night in France we went for camping on the Col du Midi (3503 m). Here we leave the cable car: splendid views on the Grandes Jorasses (r) and far away Monte Rosa.
The rapid climb was a little too much for Cas. He had a bad evening with head-aches. He didn't enjoy the sun going down very much.
Short rest on the Col Maudit (4035 m), before we move up to the Col du Brenva (4303 m) to camp there. The next day most of us climbed Mt Blanc (4807 m) from there; I had to turn around about 150 m below the summit.
24th of may we left Schiphol for Islamabad. Ronald N, Joost + Edmond were already there for a week.
In this sketch (by Cas) K2 is placed between Pakistans North-West Territories and Sinkiang-China. The area is disputed and fought over for decades. India and Pakistan soldiers are still shooting at each other on the Siachen Glacier in altitudes over 5000 m., but most of them die from altitude and cold.
Therefore expeditions into the Karakoram-Range are always to be approved of by the Pakistan Government and accompanied by a Pakistan army Liaison Officer. The man on the left is ours: major Zia Ul Haq.
In Islamabad we have to visit the Pakistan Minister of Tourism for the climbing-permit. The fee for K2-expedition (than about €12000,=) had to be paid more than a year in advance.
The Karakoram range measures 500 by 200 km, with K2 in the hart. The trip from Islamabad to Skardu can be done by plane, but -although timeconsuming- more interesting is the Karakoram Highway route. We took 2 days driving: Islamabad - Gilgit and Gilgit - Skardu.